Tough souls they were, able to keep going in the face of extreme adversity. Which, come to think of it, also describes the Kawasaki KLR650 New Edition, the bike I recently used to explore Death Valley, the starkly beautiful national park that doesn't look like it has changed much since the 1800s. Now, though, a network of roads and trails crisscrosses the place, which allowed the street-legal KLR to take me everywhere I wanted to go: Ubehebe Crater, Twenty Mule Team Canyon, the Racetrack, up Furnace Creek Wash, down the West Side Road, and eventually out of the park via Harry Wade Road. In total, the KLR and I did a few hundred miles in the park, much of it on dirt with a fair amount of washboard chop and the occasional patch of sand. The scenery, as you'd expect, was exquisite—when was the last time you saw Joshua trees in bloom?