We love the R1200GS, and at the risk of sounding like our Christmas lederhosen didn’t arrive fromMunich, we’ll start there. BMW’s engineers clearly sought to provide access to the GS’s suite of rider aids with as few buttons as possible, a commendable if functionally misguided desire. On the left bar, you get the ABS/ASC button, a Mode button for the multifunction display and an ESA (suspension adjustments) pushbutton. But you also have two modes of traction control (plus Off) and the option of disabling ABS completely. To disable ABS, press and hold the ABS/ASC button until the Brake Failure warning light illuminates—for this, the engine has to be running but the motorcycle stationary. To alter TC, push the button again. The first press gets you a cryptic S inside a semicircle on the multifunction display; that’s the off-road version of TC. Press the button again, and a warning triangle inside a semicircle appears; now, TC is inactive. At least all these modes remain in place as long as you don’t shut down with the key. You can stall and restart the GS without losing these settings. I know. I did that often.