2017 Yamaha FZ-10 - FIRST RIDE REVIEW

Riding the 2017 Yamaha FZ-10 feels right. It performs just like a real one-liter superbike does, but with a comfortable seat, handlebars, and a relaxed riding position. Whether or not you'd be relaxed riding it is up to you.

This new model is basically a current-gen YZF-R1 that’s less R and more 1. Not of the 30-year trend of the tail wagging the dog, the FZ-10 isn’t a superbike built for the street; it’s a street bike built for the street. The rider is no longer compromised. Bring a friend, pack a picnic lunch, and ride however hard, soft, or long, as you’d like.

Beneath the FZ-10's various plastic bits is basically the chassis from the talented YZF-R1, along with the R1's famous cross-plane crank, 998cc, inline-four cylinder engine that produces gobs of power in waves of sound in exciting timbre. Not only is the FZ-10 able to go fast unfrantically, it also goes unfast just as calmly, with soft pulsing ABS when pushed to its limits. Technology is cool.

The FZ-10 is big brother to FZ-07 and FZ-09—both of which will remain happily in the FZ production family—but unlike those others the FZ-10 has a racing heritage; a significant racing heritage. The frame and swingarm are derived from the R1, but the FZ-10 has a steel subframe to address the normal-life needs of extended two-up riding and the possibility of yet more weight from optional bags.

The engine is derived from the latest version of Yamaha’s beautiful sounding cross-plane crankshaft engine, but it has a number of significant internal differences for improved streetability. Improved streetability means more torque at lower rpm and a bit less horsepower at higher rpm. Achieving this begins with a larger airbox. The EFI throttle bodies are modified, but only to accept the business end of electronic cruise control. The R1's two injectors for each cylinder is now a single unit with 25-percent more flow. The second injector is omitted because its purpose is for high horsepower at high rpm for racing. As one might guess, the EFI is mapped differently from that of the R1.

The intake ports are reshaped, terminating at steel versus titanium valves. The cams have less lift and less duration, which helps flatten the dyno-graph (in a good way). The pistons are redesigned with flatter crowns and the compression is 12.0:1, while the R1 has a ratio of 13.0:1. The crankshaft has a revised moment of inertia, while the connecting rods still feature a fracture-split design. It’s fascinating that what befell Humpty Dumpty is now an intentional and preferred manufacturing process. Some things can be put back together again.

Power is delivered through a sexy slipper clutch for rpm-indiscretion forgiveness during downshifts. The transmission is unaltered yet the final drive is now two teeth taller, at 41/16 compared to the YZF-R1’s 43/16. This of course lowers the rpm for any specific speed, which is friendlier for long days of riding.

Adding to the flatter power curve is a redesigned stainless-steel exhaust system terminating with a titanium muffler. The four-into-two-into-one exhaust chamber with EXUP is reshaped and the exit pipe through the muffler has a remarkably smaller diameter, at 42.6mm compared to the R1’s 54.0mm. That’s a big difference considering, for instance, that a circle of half the diameter has only a quarter of the area. Nonetheless, the sound is soothing.

These many changes, from breathing in to exhaling out, and much, much in between, result in a claimed 18-percent more torque at a lower-revs-than-R1 peak of 9,000 rpm.

The R1-derived aluminum deltabox frame carries an aluminum swingarm that’s also R1 derived, and KYB suspension derived from that of the R1. The package results in a slightly shorter wheelbase. The fork and rear shock are fully adjustable, and rear preload is managed with a spring-nut and spanner; please amply lubricate the shock body threads before adjusting. The shock also features high- and low-speed damping adjustability. For those new to messing up suspension, if the bike is bouncy that’s low speed, if your ass is in the air from hitting an expansion joint that’s high speed. As you might guess, the settings differ from the R1 specs, so don’t try those. Like the steel subframe, the fork triple clamps are not derived but have crossed the line to totally new. The FZ-10 weighs in at a claimed wet weight of 463 lbs., which is 24 lbs. heavier than an R1, though the FZ-10 seat height is about an inch lower, matched to lowers footpegs.

The 120/70ZR-17 front and 190/55ZR-17 rear Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S12 W tires are specifically designed for the FZ-10. Up front is an electronic steering damper that adjusts according to the motorcycle’s speed, and each end has ABS: dual 320mm discs and radial-mounted four-piston calipers up front matched to a Brembo master—rather than the Nissin of the R1—and a single 220mm rotor and single-piston caliper out back.

The FZ-10’s distinctive robotronic headlights with heavy brows are frame-mounted for improved high-speed handling, and feature a small wind cowl that provides real wind deflection. On the backside of the wind cowl is an outlet for powering heated riding gear, charging a smartphone, and such.

The nice, big LCD display screen shows everything, and is without an analogue sister tachometer. Displayed are: Speed, rpm, Shift Light, Gear Position Fuel Gauge, TCS, Drive Mode, Air Temp, Engine Coolant Temp, Odometer, Dual Tripmeters, Fuel Reserve Tripmeter, and Instantaneous and Average Fuel Consumption. It’s a magical display in that it shows nearly all of these things simultaneously, and they are all easy to find, difficult to confuse with each other, and big enough for the semi-blind to see.

Speaking about rider aids, the three Drive-Modes are STD, A, and B. Yes, that’s an odd choice of designations, but considering all the good things about this bike it’s a joy that Yamaha did one thing weird for us to needlessly harp on. Anyway, STD is the friendliest drive mode, B is the most aggressive, and A is in between.

Traction control has four settings to choose from, and they are named 1, 2, 3, 4. 1 is least intrusive, 3 is for wet roads, and 4 is off. Please remember that 4 is not 3, and that 4 is basically -6, so don’t confuse those two. I’ve not mentioned what 2 is for because it’s a concept that’s impossible to explain. Think of it as caramel swirl when what you might desire was maple walnut.

Buttons? Did someone say “Buttons”? Amazingly, Yamaha has now likely exceeded all other manufacturers’ button counts, yet manages to do it in a clear, easy-to-use design for humans with normal-sized digits. Since doing reviews requires us to ride many bikes with many electronic options and many modes we can get confused. The success of Yamaha’s design is that the rider is not required to first scroll through a menu list, select the function desired, and then make a change to that function. On the FZ-10 the D-Modes, TC, Cruise Control, Blinkers, Highbeams, Horn, and Four-Way Flashers, all have their own buttons, and they are all in reasonable reach of that super-digit we share exclusively with primates and raccoons. It’s only the starter and kill switch that combine functions, which happens to also be a sensible design.

Unlike most manufacturers, Yamaha develops and designs its own electronic systems, resulting in differences in function and feel. But with the Yamaha Chip-Controlled Throttle (YCCT), the TC is smooth by virtue of the system overriding the rider’s throttle position choices, and it using the EFI butterflies rather than the dated means of interrupting fuel or ignition. YCCT also manages the D-Modes, altering throttle response. In each of the three modes peak power is the same and the only noticeable difference to the rider is the power delivery during throttle changes at low rpm. TC and D-mode settings can be altered on the fly, with the throttle closed. More complicated settings require the bike to be stopped.

Cruise control, located on the left switch block, has a separate on/off button and a toggle for setting/resume. It ‘s a cinch to operate and it only functions in 4th through 6th gears, and can only be set at speeds between 31 and 112 mph, which is more than reasonable. Had I known that while riding I totally would have tried the upper setting. “Look ma, no…” Like other cruise-control systems, the smoothest release is by turning the throttle "more off," which is to say simply rolling the twistgrip forward while cruising.

The little wind cowl does offer surprising wind protection that eliminates buffeting, but for this 5-foot 10-inch rider it made it impossible to ride with the helmet’s face shield cocked open at any minor setting due to wind deflected up the front of the helmet rather than at it. This was an issue only because it was so freakin’ hot on our first ride, and could be due to the AGV helmet, but that’s doubtful.

As far as looks go, since there’s no accounting for taste that impression is up to you. Suffice to say, though, that the FZ-10 can’t fold itself into a walking, fighting robot, nor does it respond when called, and it does look better in person.

On our first ride we were graced with an unusually long ride on exceptionally awesome roads, from the unrelenting and tight Deals Gap-Route 129, also known as Tail of the Dragon, to the flowing Cherohala Skyway, and a mix of everything else in between those two routes. We apparently flashed by many incredibly beautiful vistas that I almost saw. Nonetheless, I did appreciate the nicely comfortable seat. Also of note is that this seat is one-piece, with only a slight rise, so a passenger isn’t sitting all alone up on the mezzanine level like with a sportbike.

To love any engine is to love this engine. Its sound, its power delivery, the power of its power, are all exceptional. That said, despite the cross-plane crankshaft and higher torque numbers through the middle of the dyno graph, it is a four cylinder engine and not a twin. Its power delivery, in any mode, is basically friendly yet when taken full advantage of it demands attention. Truly hard acceleration doesn’t happen until cresting into 8,000 rpms, but when it does it is truly quick. I don’t do wheelies but on the FZ-10 I do do wheelies. That’s because, particularly in second gear, it just happens; I turn the throttle hard and the bike tries to escape its current location of the rear tire patch on the pavement as quickly as possible, be it by going forward or up, which is awesome.

So, for me, wheelies might be inadvertent, but for the FZ-10, as Yamaha officials confirmed, it’s completely on purpose; they trust that riders who want this much torque and power, and who will actually turn the throttle as far as it goes, are exactly the riders who can handle and want to handle the FZ-10’s roll-on, wheel-lofting acceleration. If you as a rider don’t giggle when that happens then, yeah, this is likely not the bike for you.

Like the earlier mentioned soft pulse of the ABS (Why was I riding so hard that it engaged? I don’t know but please don’t tell my mom.), the TC is ultra friendly, coming on smoothly and undetectably by your butt. The display will confirm it, if that’s where you want to be looking.

I’d be remiss not mentioning that where we were riding in western North Carolina and eastern Tennessee, it was 90-bagillion degrees with a humidity index of 7,000, yet the FZ-10 never felt hot. That degree of heat management is an award-winning achievement. Thank you, Yamaha. And yes, the pun is on purpose.

The front brakes with their standard Brembo master use different pads than the R1, resulting in a very linear feel, without any spiking grabbiness at heavy pressures at any speed. I’m tempted to ask for a little more initial bite, but since I’d engaged the ABS a couple times that might not be a great idea.

Handling of the FZ-10 is light and neutral for a big bike, helped by the wide bars and speed-variable steering damper, that provides absolute stability. Whether the electronics, or the tires, are to blame, who knows, but the bike was always exceptionally planted, providing awesome feel and feedback. One electronics item missing from the R1’s package is the IMU sensor, which reads the attitude of the motorcycle for managing the systems at complicated levels of lean on multiple axes. It was omitted for cost and the argument that it might be better left for where truly hard riding belongs. Or riders can buy an R1.

With the altered gearing it is particularly noticeable that first and second gears are tall. One rider in the group mentioned that he used first in Deals Gap, though I didn’t despite considering it a couple times. So just know that if you’re going to ride this bike like a criminal down really tight roads, you might be confronted with this choice.

The Yamaha FZ-10 is fundamentally a great motorcycle for riders desiring high performance with high functionality. It can be ridden politely or hard, with rider aids to enhance the experience. The FZ-10’s abilities will be most appreciated by skilled riders purposely using the rider aids along the edge of trouble. Unlike some of the other nakedish motorcycles derived from sportbikes, this is not a dumbed down machine but one refined sporty bike for the real world. Yet one might wonder how it would feel on a racetrack, just for fun, you know.

Already Yamaha has a catalogue of accessories for the FZ-10, including luggage, revealing the sporting, touring, all-around intention of this motorcycle. One might conclude that the FZ-10 is simply what Yamaha’s flagship liter bike would be if the company wasn’t engaged in production Superbike racing. It’s a nimble performance literbike, yet powerful enough for two-up touring, and smooth enough for all-day riding. The FZ-10 MSRP is $12,999, and it is available right this minute in Armor Gray or Matte Raven Black. Please don’t lend your FZ-10 to primates or raccoons.